If your goal is to create crisp, sharp photographs it is important to use the tripod whenever possible. Even at faster shutter speeds there is motion blur from the hand-held camera that will show up in enlargements. In addition, framing the subject with the camera on the tripod causes the photographer to slow down and become more careful with the composition. When doing extended exposures in night or low light situations or when attempting special effects such as with moving water, tripods are a necessity.
Tripods come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and designs. There is also a variety of tripod heads available to suit different photographic situations as well as the shooting preferences of the photographer. The photographer should consider the following criteria when selecting a tripod:
1. Sturdiness
Sturdiness in both the tripod and tripod head are the most important criteria when
selecting a tripod. Wind, mirror bounce, or movement induced when the photographer
presses the shutter will cause the camera to vibrate. The sturdier tripods and
heads are better at damping these vibrations.
2. Weight
Carrying a lot of heavy camera gear can be exhausting, especially if it is for
anything beyond a short distance. Sturdy tripods can very heavy. There are a
number of materials that reduce weight but retain the sturdiness, such as aluminum,
titanium, carbon fiber, and wood. The titanium and carbon fiber tripods can be
quite expensive (although Smith Victor just introduced a carbon fiber one for
slightly more than $200). Wood tripods are excellent for sturdiness, vibration
damping, and lighter weights, but are probably available only in the used market.
3. Tripod and Monopod Heads
There are a large variety of heads to fit tripods and monopods. Most modern heads
use a quick release plate to enable the camera to be mounted and removed with ease.
The design of the quick release plate differs between the manufacturers and usually
between models offered by a single manufacturer. The different styles of tripod
heads include:
Most of the more expensive heads also include one or two spirit levels to assist the photographer in leveling the camera level with the horizon. Because of the unevenness of the padding materials on the camera body and on the quick release plate, it is seldom that the spirit level can be used for precise positioning. Best approach is to buy a spirit level that clips into the hot shoe to determine if the camera is level.
4. Mounting Screws
It should be noted that there are two different screws that are used to mount
tripods to tripod heads and to mount tripods/heads to camera bodies. Most tripods
have a 3/8” mounting screw that mates with most tripod heads, making it easy to
exchange tripod heads between tripods. Most tripod heads have a 1/4” screw to
mate the head or the quick release plate to the camera body. Some cameras sold
in Europe will have a 3/8” tripod socket. Some tripods will have only a 1/4”
mounting screw that can be attached directly to the camera without a head. There
are also a few tripod heads that mount to the tripod with a 1/4” screw.
5. Center Post
The center post should only be extended as a matter of necessity when there is not
enough extension in the legs. Because it is only secured at one point, it acts as
a moment arm and is susceptible to vibration the more it is extended.
Many tripods have a capability for mounting the camera beneath the tripod. They either provide a mounting screw on the bottom of the center post or allow the center post to be removed and inverted. This is very handy, for example, when photographing wild flowers and other low-to–the-ground subjects.
6. Tripod Feet
Most modern tripods are sold these days with rubber feet that work well both indoors
and outdoors. Many of the earlier tripods also have metal spikes that can be
exposed when the rubber foot is screwed up into the tripod leg. These spikes can
do a lot of damage to quality flooring (this may be one of the reasons a lot of
places do not allow tripods) and they can become inadvertently exposed through
normal tripod handling. Some dish-like devices are also available to attach to
the feet to prevent your tripod from sinking into snow or loose sand.
7. Tripod Section Locks
There are several different styles of locks to hold the leg sections in place. One
style is a twist lock that you untwist to loosen and twist to tighten. It is not
possible to tell by observation if all the leg sections are locked securely. The
other lock styles are levers. One style opens and closes in the direction of the
leg. Another lever style twists perpendicular to the leg. Both of these styles
are undesirable because it is easy to snag the levers on things when you are carrying
the tripod. Most of the professionals prefer the third lever type that opens and
closes in a direction perpendicular to the leg, but when it is closed it is wrapped
around the leg so that it does not protrude.
Many tripods also have adjustments or détentes that allow the user to change the angle of the legs. Some tripods have braces that can be adjusted by loosening and tightening screws. Others have several fixed détentes that can be selected through the adjustment of a catch. It is important to ensure that the legs are firmly locked so that the tripod will not collapse.
8. Compactness (for traveling)
It is difficult to find tripods that will fit into your luggage when traveling.
These post-9/11 days it is much easier to put your tripod into a suitcase to bring
it aboard as a carry-on, although I have seen some photographer’s come aboard with
their tripods. A compact tripod is seldom as sturdy as one that is larger. It
usually has 4-leg sections instead of 3 to make it shorter when not extended. The
tripod head can be removed to make it even shorter if need be. A compact tripod
is also lighter for taking it on long hikes. This is a compromise that we are
sometimes willing to make.
9. Monopods
Monopods are handy for a number of reasons. Sometimes you may be allowed to use
a monopod where tripods are not allowed. It is much easier to do a pan shot with
a monopod than with a tripod. Monopods reduce the camera movement only on one axis,
but they also aid the photographer, who would otherwise be supporting the weight of
the camera and lens, by eliminating the shake while he is trying to compose, frame,
and expose his image.
10. Window Brackets
These are small devices that screw into the tripod socket of the camera and clamp
onto the partially raised window of the car. They are handy for doing wildlife
photography where you do not want to spook the game by getting out of your car.
They are also handy for doing extended exposures of lightening storms while
remaining inside the shielding provided by the metal car body.
11. Beanbags/Camera Bags
Beanbags or camera bags can be used to rest your camera when you are without a
tripod. Because the beanbag can be deformed to fit the orientation of the camera
they are handy when using other objects for support, such as the roof of a car, a
railing, picnic table, etc. Travel photographers like to carry a bag with a zipper
in it so they can fill it with beans bought in the market at their destination.
It is also possible to use a zip-lock bag with beans, sand, or other deformable
material. Camera bags, while not as easy to deform and adapt, still make a nice
stable platform when you have nothing else available.
12. Image Stabilized/Vibration Reduction Lenses
Image Stabilized (Canon), Vibration Reduction (Nikon) lenses, and others by
manufacturers such as Sigma, are useful when there is no tripod available.
Their use can improve the sharpness at shutter speeds 4 times (2 EV) longer and
some manufacturers claim 8 times (3 EV) longer, depending on the focal length of
the lens. These lenses are especially useful in the longer focal lengths.
13. Manufacturers
The following is an brief list of the more commonly known manufacturers:
14. Tips
Al Olson
(970) 731-9801
a.c.olson@CenturyTel.net
© 2005-2007 a.c.olson